Checking back in from a dream cloud called Ikaria, Greece, where I spent the most magical week studying longevity, lifestyle, and nutrition. Yes, you read that correctly: studying. As in, this was a class. For school. I love school. Chomp chomp go Gators.

Ikaria – A Blue Zone

The focus of the class was the nutrition and lifestyle habits of those living in the “Blue Zone” of Ikaria, Greece, one of five regions identified by Dan Buettner’s research where people live the longest…with impressively good health into old age. Namely, Ikaria has one of the world’s lowest rates of middle age mortality and the lowest rates of dementia. (The other Blue Zones are Okinawa, Japan; Sardinia, Italy; Nicoya, Costa Rica; and Loma Linda, California.) Once these gems are discovered, it follows that we must figure out their secrets, right? While it’s difficult to account for every variable, the team of medical researchers, anthropologists, demographers, and epidemiologists boiled it down to nine common features, all of which can be embraced no matter where you call home. The “Power 9” are:

1. Move naturally.
2. Know your purpose in life.
3. Relieve stress.
4. Eat to 80% fullness.
5. Load up on beans and plant foods.
6. Drink moderately. 
7. Belong to a faith-based community.
8. Put loved ones first.
9. Foster a social circle that promotes healthy behaviors.

Just reading these principles helped open my eyes to the big picture of health and longevity. The emphasis is different from the typical image of health flaunted in modern media and most organizations. Only 2 of the 9 involve food, and nowhere do they mention strenuous exercise or anything about weight! The data still tell us that these things are important, but the long-term approach may be much simpler than we realize.

Thea’s Inn and Restaurant

We stayed in the lovely little town of Nas with accommodations by the warmest, most welcoming and hospitable host, Thea. Below is the view from my room (at the neighboring Dimitris’s), but the photo doesn’t come close to doing it justice.

Breakfasts

Breakfast at Thea’s, which repeated each day but never got old(!), was:

• smooth and rich, no-sugar-added and no-sugar-needed Greek yogurt like none I had ever tasted
• sweet dark local honey and a variety of jams with hunks of fruit
• feta, tomatoes, and olives (which I’ll admit I never had 15 of as recommended for breakfast)
• warm soft scrambled eggs
• thick toasted bread and tahini
• herbal tea of the day (such as sage, rosemary, and mint), each with unique purported benefits
• Annnnnnd coffee. 

Black tea is my go-to beverage in the morning, so both these options were a step on the wild side for me. The first day we had sage tea; I don’t love the taste of sage, so this led me to a new discovery: COFFEE. I realize I’m a little late to hop on the coffee train, but I am now aware…Coffee is good. 

In all, breakfast was a WINNER. Each day I felt satisfied for hours, without any discomfort or GI upsets—which are otherwise fairly common when I go on trips. 

Lunches and Dinners

Our other meals featured:

• a never-ending supply of Greek salad (tomatoes, red onions, cucumber, olives, herbs, and olive oil)
• feta (including saganaki, def a favorite!) and homemade fresh cheese
• plenty of beans and peas (like the yummy baked butter beans with tomatoes shown above
• loads of veggies like briam (eggplant, potatoes, onion, tomato, zucchini galore roasted with olive oil), horta (boiled flavorful greens), and more eggplant
• seafood most days, including whole grilled sardines (OMG THESE WERE TO-DIE-FOR. Eat the whole thing for protein from the flesh, healthy oils from the skin, and calcium from the bones), octopus (my other Mediterranean favorite), fried calamari, and whole fried fish that the fisherman delivered that morning. If you really want to have fun at dinner, don’t forget to dissect and eat your brain and eyeballs.
• meat a few times, including juicy chicken and pork souvlaki
• a decent amount of fried food, like fried potatoes and greens/cheese hand pies
• bread with a wonderful variety of spreads such as hummus, baba ganoush, and garlic “salad” (shown above)
• wine almost always on the table, but never the main attraction

The Ikarians put very little emphasis on sweets. Dessert was often fresh seasonal fruit, but Thea also spoiled us with treats like ice cream with strawberries, loukoumades (honey-soaked doughnut balls), and the most insane baklava you’ve ever tasted. We love you, Thea.

Another pleasantly surprising after-meal special was “Greek coffee,” a small sweetened cup reminiscent of hot cocoa with a large amount of grounds (like, a LOT) that collected at the bottom. Supposedly the leftover solids contain your fortune.

Mine? 

Importantly, every meal was enjoyed family-style with love and laughter. No rush, no stress or complaints about the food, no calorie-counting or unnecessary restricting. Just appreciation for the simple natural goodness of our fresh and local food, and appreciation for one another.

Activities

In between our feasts, we embarked on little excursions to fully embrace life on Ikaria–from bathing in the hot springs at Therma to picking strawberries from the fields overlooking the sea, and everything in between.

Day 1: hot springs at Therma

Immediately after arrival on Ikaria, we headed to Therma to soak in the natural, therapeutic hot springs. The “spa” portion was like a hot bath; after ten minutes, we transitioned to the “sauna” room, a small, dark enclave in the rocks with a temperature and humidity level just above my comfort zone. My first attempt at escape after eight minutes was thwarted by the owner, who ushered me right back. My buddy Logan made the last four minutes bearable with some soothing words, and upon emerging after the full session, I was glad I had stayed. We finished in the cool sea water and finally the magic hot tub built right into the sea. 

Day 2: the secret life of bees + the magic of grapes

The Ikarians swear by their remarkable local honeys as one of their secrets to good health. Specifically, the anema variety is supposed to be the most potent as a remedy for colds and congestion–it’s extra thick, lighter in color, and has just a hint of bitterness. My favorite was the local pine and wildflower mix, a rich amber nectar with deep, complex sweetness. I bought 2 jars of each, so I should be well-armed when the Gainesville plague rolls around this fall. And even if it doesn’t live up to the medicinal claims, the thick sweet yummy goodness is therapeutic in itself as far as I’m concerned.

Next up, at the winery Amphorae, we learned about the production of local wines, which differed considerably from my experiences at wineries throughout Italy. Most notably, in Ikaria, compared with Italy, they seemed less proud of the wine itself, but more content with the land and what it had to give. They valued traditions such as stomping the grapes and sucking the wine out of the ground (what someone had to do before the pump); used only two local grapes for a wine unique to Ikaria; kept their wines unfiltered to retain the most nutrients; and used organic grapes and methods. Even though I personally don’t drink wine, the culture of wine-making and its historical importance never fail to amaze me. The photo above shows the stage for performances at the winery, constructed precisely for acoustic amplification at the center where I’m standing…and it worked shockingly well.

Day 3: saving the eggplants + fun with clay

Tuesday morning, after another wholesome breakfast, we headed to Thea’s son’s farm to see where our meals began. Moreover, we got to weed the zucchini and eggplant plots…aka yank potatoes out of the ground, which is actually more fun than it sounds. 

As a side note, have you ever eaten zucchini flower? It’s surprisingly delicious and can be used anywhere you would have leafy greens or herbs, such as zucchini flower risotto!

Later that day was the activity I had been looking forward to the most: pottery-making! I will admit, for a person as obsessed as I am with handmade pottery, I’m not the most talented in that area. Luckily, Ana’s shop was basically a magical wonder emporium of beautiful dishes and jewelry and art, so just in case my questionable mug doesn’t hold up (my hopes are low), I bought two more for myself plus an ornament for the mother. 

Day 4: strawberries and goats in the mountain + yoga over the sea + goat ice cream at the beach

We first headed out on our trek to the goat and strawberry farm, about a 20 minute walk (turned 10 minutes with the help of Thea’s personal shuttle service) and just off the road. We spent time in the refreshing morning air and life-giving sunshine picking beautiful plump strawberries from the ground, then took them home to contribute to dessert later on. I don’t know if the overalls had anything to do with it, but this experience really cemented my feeling of immersion in the simple Ikarian lifestyle. We were living in the present, and nothing else seemed to matter.

The second half of the morning was mindfulness and yoga with the eccentric, earthy, spirited Simone in the sunny room of the restaurant with a view of the Aegean—aka the yoga studio of your dreams. The stories and cues seemed like somewhat of a stretch (absorbing the energy from the rock of Ikaria…); but, nonetheless, it was quite a relaxing 2 hours. 

After a yummy lunch featuring my fav octopus salad, we took a short trip to the local pharmacy to learn more about healthcare on the island. I was surprised to see how modern the pharmacy was (perhaps because the Blue Zones puts so much emphasis on herbal remedies and natural treatments). The pharmacist seemed to support the health benefits of herbs, but not necessarily above modern medicine. Some other interesting insights:

• Addiction is not a significant problem in Ikaria, so there is less concern about prescribing narcotics;
• the community is so close that the pharmacist is familiar with the gene pool of the island, and can make recommendations based on people’s family history.
• there’s a grand total of seven pharmacists and twelvedoctors on the entire island. Clearly, the secret must lie in prevention, so that people naturally live longer without a need for intensive medical intervention to treat diseases.

After seeing a sign for goat milk ice cream on the first day, my foodie friends and I were dead set on it. So the minute we got off at the beach for a free afternoon, our first objective was trekking to the nearby Arministis to hunt down the rare treat. Perhaps more interesting than the type of milk, though, were the flavor options, which included herb and mastic oil. The herb was surprisingly sweet and mild, while the mastic was truly one of a kind. Of course, I ended up with stracciatella, because really what’s ice cream without chocolate? It definitely got a thumbs up, but in terms of uniqueness, I would never have guessed it came from anything other than a cow.

Day 5: hike til you drop + distilling essential oils

I am ALL about long hikes, and this excursion was a perfect way to finish off the trip. We stopped frequently to take photos and learn about the flora and fauna around us, and the slow pace also gave us a chance to interact with each other more—which was just as valuable looking back on the day. Our guide explained that Greece has the highest biodiversity in Europe, with three zones by altitude, each with different habitats. One fascinating plant we saw was myrtle, which once was given to pilots to enhance their vision during wartime. Another was St. John’s wort (hypericum), which is used to alleviate depression in the US. But, not surprisingly, the Ikarians use it for any of its other purported benefits. If soaked in olive oil for 2 months, the oil turns red as the resin of the plant is extracted, and the oil can be used for eczema, psoriasis, or other skin problems.

After most of the day hiking, we met up with this new friend who lived in the forest distilling essential oils. Our group went out to gather peppermint, packed it into the stainless steel container, then watched as steam passed through the leaves, condensed, then separated into lipid-soluble (the essential oil) and water-soluble (the hydrosol) portions. The essential oil seemed to be where all the magic was. Just a drop or two (inhaled, ingested, or rubbed on the skin) could act as strongly as some medications. For example, oregano can be used as an antibiotic, thyme for cough, peppermint for headaches, rosemary for sore muscles, and the list goes on. While there may be a lack of research for some of these claims, the distiller made an intriguing point that many medications are synthesized to mimic the active ingredient of an herb.

Finally, perhaps more impactful than the planned activities was the free time on this trip. We went for runs along the scenic roads; spontaneously climbed rocks in our swimsuits; skipped rocks in the river (well, I tried…); jammed out on the beach to our 100% American music while lifting rocks (a true “primal” workout, if you will); and wandered off late at night to gaze at the stars.

I can say without a doubt that my adventure in Ikaria transformed me personally in ways I never could have imagined—my nutrition philosophy, approach to stress, capacity for mindfulness, and care for relationships and the wellbeing of others. If searching for your next revitalizing getaway, I definitely recommend this precious island. Feel free to reach out for additional recommendations or thoughts!